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From Old Mill Station to the lake, take a stroll along an urban river — and through Toronto’s history — on this west-end hike.
The Humber River is more than just a scenic river that cuts through the western edge of Toronto: it’s also one of the most significant waterways in the history of the city, province, and country, receiving Heritage River designation in 1999. The ancient Indigenous Carrying Place trade route follows its eastern shoreline, the mouth of the river was the site of the first European fort in the area, and the area was even home to one of Canada’s most famous authors, Lucy Maud Montgomery. So lace up for an exploration of the Humber River Trail.
Distance: The round trip from Bloor Street to the lake and back is roughly three kilometres (just under two miles).
Start and finish: Old Mill Subway Station
Overview: The southbound route is mostly downhill, and fully accessible, but there are a couple of steep ascents and descents. Plan for a 45-minute stroll to get to the lake, if you choose to walk. The return leg includes a stairway that you can avoid if necessary, and a fairly steep incline up Riverside Dr., so factor this into your schedule. The timing for cyclists depends on pace, as well as frequency and duration of stops. At a brisk pace with no stops, you can bike from Bloor St. to the lake in about 15 minutes.
Access: This off-road, paved hiking and biking trail is easily accessible by transit from Old Mill subway station. There are Bike Share Toronto docking stations close to the station and at the start of the trail. There is also free public parking in King’s Mill Park North between the bridge and the Old Mill.
What to expect: The route follows a paved path with stretches along sidewalks (or side streets if you’re biking). At various times you can veer off the paved path onto parallel dirt trails through wooded areas. On the southbound journey the Humber will be on your left, occasionally hidden behind the mixed hardwood and deciduous forest. The river along this stretch is roughly 50 metres wide and a couple metres deep in the middle. Unless there has been heavy rain recently, it flows fairly slowly as it meanders towards the lake. But pollution from upstream means it’s not safe for swimming. The paved path is fully sun-exposed, but you can find shade on the dirt trails.
The northbound route along the east side of the river follows a mix of paved and gravel paths, and sidewalk. This stretch is partially shaded.
Sights Along the Way
The Old Mill
The first landmark you encounter on this route is the Old Mill. Exiting Old Mill Station, turn right and then right again onto Old Mill Rd. This will lead you past a combination restaurant, event space, hotel, and spa that first opened in 1914.
It sits on the site of the King’s Mill, a sawmill built in 1793 under the orders of the Lieutenant Governor of Upper Canada, John Graves Simcoe. It was the first industrial building in what would become Toronto. Later, two flour mills were built in the same location but both were destroyed by fire and eventually abandoned.
In 2001, a new Inn and Spa opened on the site, which incorporated parts of the mill’s foundation stones. Turn right onto the roadway leading to the King’s Mill Park North parking.
King’s Mill Park
Head south and walk past two parking areas. Before you pass under the Bloor St. bridge, on your left you’ll spot Toronto Adventures, a seasonal outfitter that rents canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards, and offers guided river tours. On the right, you’ll see a stairway that leads up to Bloor St. and an alternate route to and from Old Mill Station. Stop to admire the murals painted by Philip Cote of the Moose Deer Point First Nation on the pillars that support the subway line.
Walk through the gate that keeps all but service vehicles off this stretch of the path. You can stay on the paved path or take a detour along the dirt trails that pass through the woods on either side. At different times over the years I’ve seen deer, coyotes, foxes, rabbits, owls, and other wildlife in this narrow wooded area.
As the route veers left and up a slight hill, note that Park Lawn Cemetery runs to the edge of the crest above you.
At the bottom of the hill, tucked in on your left is the storied but, today, rather fancifully named Toronto Humber Yacht Club. Continue walking and on your left is a dog off-leash area and a free public boat launch. Note this stretch of trail is shared with vehicles.
The road leads up a steepish hill. Turn left at the top onto Riverwood Parkway, and then join Stephen Dr. (There are trail markers and painted bike lanes on the road for cyclists.) Head south, and shortly after you cross Berry Rd., rejoin the off-road paved trail on the left to enter South Humber Park.
The Oculus
The first highlight you’ll come across on this stretch is the Oculus. This sci-fi-looking saucer-shaped structure opened as a public washroom in the 1960s. The facilities have long-since been closed, and now it’s more of a curiosity and target for graffiti.
As you continue south, you’ll see more Indigenous murals on a wall on your right.
The Site of the Palace Pier
The trail passes under the Queensway, a railway overpass, and the Gardiner Expressway. The end of the trail marks the former site of the Palace Pier, a building that once jutted out into the lake. From its completion in 1941 until it burned down in 1963, it was at various times a roller rink, dance hall, and music venue that hosted everyone from big band legend Duke Ellington to Johnny Cash.
Humber Bay Arch Bridge & Lake Ontario
Take in the views of the Toronto skyline before crossing the iconic white Humber Bay Arch Bridge. Completed in 1994, the 139-metre-long, award-winning design links the shared hiking and biking Martin Goodman Trail on either side of the river. Indigenous imagery, including the Thunderbird (known as the “seer of all”), canoes and turtles, were built into the structure acknowledging First Nations’ input on the design, and their ancestors who used the mouth of the Humber as a launching point to head north to Lake Simcoe, Georgian Bay, and beyond. (Read more about the history of the Carrying Place trail here.)
But before we return back north, a quick detour. Head towards the tall grey statue with a crown on top. This is the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) Monument. Dedicated by King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1939 during a royal tour, it originally stood on the west side of the Humber, marking the entrance to the Toronto portion of the QEW. When the highway was widened in 1974, it was moved to its current location in Sir Casimir Gzowski Park.
To get back onto the trail, head west towards the river and follow the paved path as it snakes its way under the QEW. You’ll come to a wide staircase that leads to a narrow gravel path. Follow that path until you come to a road (it’s an onramp to the Gardiner Expressway, running off of the Queensway). Turn left and you’re back on the paved path. (To avoid stairs, head east to Windermere Ave., and then cross Lakeshore Blvd. and the Queensway before making your way to the South Kingsway, where you can rejoin the route.)
If you follow the gravel and paved path, you’ll eventually come to a hill leading up to a gas station. Just off of a parking area at the southern end of the gas station, you’ll find historic plaques commemorating the “probable site” of Fort Toronto (a.k.a Fort Portneuf), a French trading post constructed on the east bank of the Humber in 1750. Later, French explorer, trader, and interpreter Jean-Baptiste Rousseaux modified the abandoned fort into a home. This site was at the time at the mouth of the river; everything south of here has been filled in by sediment and human construction over the centuries.
Carefully cross the gas station parking lot and follow the sidewalk along the west side of South Kingsway, veering to the left to follow Riverside Dr. Take in the view of the Humber Marshes as you walk along Riverside Dr., climbing the hill.
The Lucy Maud Montgomery Connection
For fans of Anne of Green Gables, here’s a fun surprise. While Lucy Maud Montgomery and her titular character Anne Shirley both grew up on Prince Edward Island, the author later emigrated to Ontario, spending her final years living at 210 Riverside Dr. in the Swansea neighbourhood of Toronto. Just past the house, there’s a small parkette with a historic plaque about Montgomery. Continue north along Riverside Dr. until you reach Bloor St.
Back at Bloor St.
To explore Bloor West Village or to get to the Jane Station, turn right and head east. To go back to Old Mill Station head west and cross the bridge, taking in the panoramic view of the river that you’ve been exploring below.
Looking for another city hike? Check out this easy midtown ravine walk.
