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Tootie’s Tempeh, based in Maine, has made the ancient staple irresistible.
Tempeh, a fermented soy protein, hits all the right notes for a healthier, convenient alternative to meat:
- It’s plant-based and vegan, made from real soybeans, and not highly processed or made in a lab
- It’s a convenient, ready-to-eat food
- It’s sustainably made and good for the planet
But for me, at least, there was always one drawback: I didn’t really like it. Friends I’ve talked to and people I’ve cooked for didn’t much like tempeh, either. That is until a couple years ago, when I tried Tootie’s Tempeh, made by a worker-owned cooperative in Maine using local soybeans and a reconfigured process to make a fresher product. Now, I can’t stop eating it — and thinking of ways to enjoy it in recipes.
Tempeh is an ancient, fermented staple of both Indonesia and Malaysia, where it was traditionally made from boiled soybeans and fermented in banana leaves to create a dense protein cake. Its more popular cousin, tofu, also made from soybeans, originates in China but is made without a fermenting process, resulting in softer, spongier blocks of protein. Tempeh’s denseness gives it nearly double the amount of protein found in tofu, about 16 grams per 3-ounce serving (about 1/2 cup), compared to 8 to 10 grams for the same quantity of tofu. Tempeh has loads of calcium, iron, and fiber, and zero cholesterol as well.
Traditionally made tempeh has a nutty flavor, but some of today’s commercially made tempeh can have a slightly bitter or sour taste. Aware that commercial producers use plastic bags to ferment their culture-inoculated beans, in 2019, Tootie’s Tempeh founders Sarah Speare and Barbara Fiore wondered whether there might be a better way to make tempeh, one that would be more in line with their values as environmentalists and that would be closer to tempeh’s traditional origins.
The idea for this business, Sarah said, came to her one day practically as a download — she wrote everything on a piece of paper, including the name “Tootie’s,” in honor of her late mother, who was a bit of a rebel, an environmentalist, and an early supporter of Rachel Carson. Three years and three workspaces later, after lots of experimentation, grants, and grit, they formulated a tempeh inoculated with mycelia and fermented in metal pails, not plastic bags. Made from organic soybeans grown in Northern Maine, the resulting product has a smoother, better flavor than any other tempeh I’ve tried, and it crumbles more easily, enabling it to soak up whatever flavors it’s cooked or paired with.
Why don’t more people know about this incredible superfood that is so high in protein, so clean — a simply made whole food that is sustainable and plant-based and fermented?
– Sarah Speare, co-founder Tootie’s Tempeh
“Some people say our tempeh tastes creamy and buttery,” Sarah says. The flavor of tempeh is a bit hard to nail down, she explains. “A lot of people say it has a nutty, umami flavor. It’s sort of mushroomy and nutty. It’s not rubbery like tofu. It’s got a real texture to it, more like meat, I guess.”
Sarah says she is happy not only with the flavor of their tempeh, but also with its environmental benefits. Tempeh in general uses a fraction of the water required by animal proteins, and it produces dramatically less CO2. She is quick to say they are the first and one of the only U.S. tempeh makers to not ferment in plastic bags. When packaged, the tempeh is vacuum-sealed in a single plastic wrapper for freshness and extended shelf-life, but they hope to introduce recyclable or plant-based bags in the future.
Tootie’s sources all of its soybeans from Aurora Mills and Farm, a 400-acre organic and regenerative farm in Aroostook County, Maine, run by first- and second-generation father and daughter farmers. The soybeans grow as a cover crop, building a healthy soil for the other grains. “The beautiful thing is our beans are nourishing all the oats and grains for so many breadmakers and beermakers,” Sarah points out. “I just get chills thinking about that.”
She calls tempeh a “sleeping giant,” and wonders why, as a plant-based food, it has not soared in popularity. “Why don’t more people know about this incredible super food that is so high in protein, so clean, and a simply made whole food that is sustainable and plant-based and fermented?”
Tootie’s Tempeh will be working on that. You can find their tempeh throughout the Northeast, with store locations listed on their website, along with tempeh recipes. Tootie’s comes in a snappy purple and green cardboard box and is located in the refrigerated section.
Benefits of Eating Tempeh
- It’s a prebiotic and is good for you (friendly fiber feeds beneficial bacteria in your belly)
- It’s rich in calcium, protein, and antioxidants
- Growing soybeans creates fertile, nitrogen-rich soil
- It’s gentle on the planet, requiring much less water and energy to produce than other protein-rich foods
Ways to Cook With Tempeh
Tempeh is versatile and can be sautéed, grilled, stuffed into things, or formed into balls. It absorbs flavors and cooks similarly to meat. Some people prefer to steam it for a few minutes before grilling to help it absorb marinades. Here are some ideas for using tempeh:
- Crumbled and sautéed for tacos, bolognese, chili, shepherd’s pie, and stuffed peppers
- Cubed and pan-seared for stir-fries, bowls, and salad “croutons”
- Cut into chunks and skewered with veggies (zucchini, peppers, red onions, mushrooms, etc.) for the grill or broiler, with BBQ sauce or marinade
- Cut into strips or thickly sliced rectangles and pan-seared for BLT’s, Reubens, and other veggie sandwiches
