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It was 7:56 am when my girlfriend and I pulled onto Northern Pines Road and filed our way into a line of traffic headed toward the starting area. The annual Cross-Island Hike (XIH) was scheduled to kick off at 8 am sharp.
This was going to be a long day, and the online schedule for this hike explicitly said it would be “briskly led,” so there was no fudge-factor in our timing. Soon, it was time to go, and a stream of hikers meandered up from Hillman’s Point beach amidst a shimmering Lake Tashmoo backdrop. Along with Bill Veno (Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank trail manager, senior planner at the Martha’s Vineyard Commission, and longtime XIH coordinator), a few other familiar faces headed the pack. Photographer and outdoor enthusiast Randi Baird waved hello as she captured the determined smiles of hikers just beginning their journey. Island author and historian Tom Dresser kept pace, ready to take on yet another XIH. “I don’t know if it’s been every year, but it’s been at least 15 times, just not consecutively,” Dresser said. “I love it, it’s a great thing that gets everyone together; and beautiful weather today, too.”
It’s all about promoting the network of trails that exists here, and promoting a healthy lifestyle and an appreciation for the island.
–Bill Veno, Land Bank trail manager and hike organizer
For 32 years, the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank has celebrated National Trails Day on June 1 by hosting the Cross-Island Hike — this year exploring 17 conservation properties and five named ancient ways. Approximately 135 people participated in the trek. Some 99 started but didn’t stay for the whole walk, and 42 dauntless folks completed the full 19.2 miles from Hillman’s Point Preserve to the Chilmark Pond Preserve. It was entertaining to watch Veno lead the way on yet another new adventure for him — the route changes each year in order to paint the broadest possible picture of the island for participants. Going from trail to trail illustrated how diverse and interconnected the natural spaces on-Island are. One minute we’d stroll through farmland and along horse paddocks at the John Presbury Norton trailhead, and the next we’d traverse a winding tunnel of tall vines along Ice House Pond on the Manaquayak Preserve.
According to Veno, the only training he does for the XIH is walking his dog. “This year felt really good. For some reason it seems like the older I get, the less sore I am afterward,” Veno laughed. Normally, Veno will walk each segment of the hike beforehand, but this year he just figured it out as he went along. With a few minor course adjustments, Veno kept everyone on track. Being able to expose people to the trails and highlight the importance of connecting the island’s natural spaces is an essential part of Veno’s work with the Land Bank. “It’s all about promoting the network of trails that exists here,” Veno said. “and promoting a healthy lifestyle and an appreciation for the island.”
On a hike as long as this one, it’s tough to know what to expect, and there were a few moments along the way that I’ll never forget. The first occurred just a few miles in, when I slowed my stride briefly to grab a water bottle from my backpack. A soft voice came from behind. “Passing on your left,” an older hiker said as she continued briskly down the trail, hiking poles in-hand. I could tell she would be at the finish line, but I likely wouldn’t be seeing her there. “Man, I really hope I can do the full thing by the time I’m that age,” I laughed to myself. I was impressed to see how many hikers were in their 50s, 60s, 70s, and 80s, many of whom would be high-fiving and contemplating a dip at the beach after arriving at Chilmark Pond following a full day of adventure.
When the trail forked at Nip ‘N’ Tuck Farm in West Tisbury, Veno referenced the route map and pointed in the direction of some massive, feather-hoofed black and brown draft horses who seemed nervous about the unusual number of onlookers. As hikers progressed along the trail and snapped photos of the Fishers’ majestic livestock, one of the largest black horses somehow found himself on our side of the fence. My girlfriend, who has a good deal of experience with horses, ushered hikers along so as not to further spook the anxious animal. I grabbed my cell phone and called Nip ‘N’ Tuck. “Hi, we’re participating in the Cross-Island Hike, and it looks like one of your horses might have just escaped his paddock,” I said. “Okay, thanks for letting us know — we’ll send someone down,” a calm voice said over the phone. That felt like a quintessential Vineyard moment.
We walked cautiously along Lambert’s Cove Road and arrived at the West Tisbury Public Safety Building around 10:30 am for a well-deserved break. Officers at the West Tisbury Police Station took pity on us sweaty hikers and let everyone in for a pit-stop. Meanwhile, peckish participants passed around donated snacks and refreshments — granola bars, raisins, trail mix, and cups of water. Then we got going again. The entrance to Roger’s Path alongside State Road must have looked like a deer trail to anyone driving by, but as we entered the shady section of forest, I saw how expansive the area actually was. Thousands of acres of Up-Island wilderness were hidden just off the main road.
As the group marched past Scotchman’s Lane around noon and began heading toward the West Tisbury Town Hall (the next checkpoint), I looked over at my girlfriend, who seemed like she could go at least another few miles. “I think it’s time for me to throw in the towel,” I told her with a weary smile. She quickly responded, “Beach time?” I nodded. “Yup, I think it’s beach time.”
After about five hours of trekking through the wilderness, I had expanded my repertoire of beautiful Vineyard hikes, and developed a greater sense of appreciation for my home. I’ll surely be back at the Cross-Island Hike next year, with the goal of crossing that finish line.
