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Pear Farmers along Oregon’s Hood River ‘Fruit Loop’ adapt to a changing climate.
It’s a warm Sunday summer afternoon on a back road just off the Hood River Fruit Loop. My husband and I peer through the fence at rows of pear trees on Mount Hood Organic Farms. Red pears ripen on the branches, a carpet of natural grass and clover underneath. A tangle of pink sweet pea, white Queen Anne’s lace, and yellow St. John’s Wort borders the road. Mount Hood rises perfectly beyond the orchards. A few birds tweet and every so often we hear a distant car. Otherwise, quiet.
Driving the Fruit Loop is something that both locals and tourists do, and that Portlanders (like us) often take guests to experience. And people have been doing it for a century this year. In 1925, the Mount Hood Loop Road opened, enticing motorists into one of Oregon’s most fertile valleys. Since then, people have come to admire pink and white pear blossoms in spring, and to buy cherries, apples, and pears from farm stands in summer and fall. According to Pear Bureau Northwest, 88% of all fresh pears grown in the U.S. — and 96% of winter pears — come from Washington and Oregon.
The Hood River Valley’s farming history started in 1854, when Nathaniel Coe is credited with planting the first apple seeds in the area. But it turns out that pears were an even better bet — they survived the heavy freezes that kill apples.
What’s so special about the Hood River Valley? “They say it’s the soil,” Jean Godfrey, former executive director of Columbia Gorge Fruit Growers, told me. “From the mountain exploding years ago and creating some good soil. And the climate. We’re not too cold, we’re not too hot.” Volcanic soil is rich in magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and other good stuff.
A lot has changed in the 171 years since Nathaniel started planting his seeds, and during the hundred years of the Fruit Loop. Nowadays, 90% of the valley’s fruit crop is pears, with apples and cherries making up the last 10%. And beautiful Mount Hood has been losing ice. Fast. In the last 120 years, 60% of Hood’s major glaciers lost 60% of their area — and 40% of that loss was recent. “It’s been a rapid increase in the rate of glacier loss in the first two decades of this millennium.” Anders Carlson, president of the Oregon Glaciers Institute, told Oregon Public Broadcasting. “The mountains are literally falling apart with the loss of snow and ice on them.”
Some pear farmers are starting to respond to changing conditions, especially around water conservation. “We monitor our water usage carefully,” Mount Hood Organic Farms co-owner Brady Jacobson told me. Mt. Hood was Oregon’s first certified organic orchard.
Pear Bloom Farm is among the farms working hardest to get ahead of climate change adopting a long list of regenerative farming practices. Regenerative farming aims to improve soil health, increase biodiversity, and promote sustainability. For example, Pear Bloom Farm specializes in growing no-till crops. When farmers refrain from disturbing the soil by tilling, it stays healthier and is less likely to erode. As part of its biodiversity goal, Pear Bloom makes allies out of little critters that other farms might see as pests. If wasps build a nest in a pear tree, the farmers don’t harvest that tree. The farmers create cozy habitats for earwigs — who like mulch — and in turn, the earwigs control harmful pests such as aphids and mites. As owner Yesenia Sanchez Oates explains on the farm’s website, “With family farms facing increasing challenges from climate change to global pandemics, astronomical inflation, anti-family farm policies, and competing with mega corporate farms, we have had to adapt quickly.”
The Fruit Loop is an incredibly beautiful drive, dotted with farms like Mount Hood Organic and Pear Bloom. You can support local agriculture by buying freshly picked fruit directly from farm stands or at U-picks. (Extra credit if you drive an electric car!)
Which pears should you choose? Yesenia loves Starkrimson pears, which you can try putting on pizza, and bosc pears poached in red wine. Jean favors Comice, Bartlett, and Taylor’s Gold. She spends a lot of time educating people on Anjous, Hood River’s number one pear crop. Sometimes she gets calls from dissatisfied customers who expect Anjous to change color when they ripen. They don’t.
Instead, we’ll end with a little pear knowledge we can all use. “Check the neck,” Jean advises. “You take your thumb and press where the stem is. If it gives there, your pear is ripe. Don’t squeeze the middle or you’ll be too late.”
When Is a Pear Ripe?
“Check the neck,” Jean advises. “You take your thumb and press where the stem is. If it gives there, your pear is ripe. Don’t squeeze the middle or you’ll be too late.”
Useful Info
Want to try pear farming yourself? How to Grow a Pear Tree From Seed at Home
How to Roast a Perfect Pear
- Yield: Makes 8 halves 1x
Description
Roasting a pear is a simple technique that deepens its floral, perfumy flavor. Pears come out of the oven warm, juicy, and slightly caramelized. Once roasted, there are plenty of uses — the simplest of which is a warm dessert paired with a reduced apple cider sauce.
A salad with the roasted pears becomes special enough for company. If an appetizer is needed, top crostini toasts with goat cheese, a slice of roasted pear, and a sprig of thyme. Pop one or two roasted leftover pears into your butternut squash soup for a wonderful balance of sweetness. However they get used, roasted pears are a fan favorite.
It takes only one ingredient to get started: Pears. The pears should be just ripe — not too soft, not too hard. A little unripe will still work because roasting helps to soften — it just takes a little longer.
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
- Peel the pears, cut them in half, and scoop out the core with a spoon. Rub with olive oil. Place pears cut-side down, and bake for about 30 to 40 minutes. The goal of roasting is to get the cut side golden brown — a light browning or caramelization. That’s the flavorful part. Check the pears once or twice while roasting; if they are not browning, you can turn the temperature up by 25 degrees (or even up to 400° or 425°). The pears should be lightly browned on the cut side and easily pierced with a fork.
Notes
Which pears work best? Anjou pears have always been a favorite to roast. When I’ve had difficulty finding Anjou pears, I’ve tried some other varieties. Turns out many pears work, including Bosc, Comice, and Bartlett. If you can find local pears at a farmers market, give them a try.
RECIPE: Roasted Apple, Pear, and Beet Salad
- Yield: Serves 2–4 1x
Description
It’s the perfect time of year to make use of seasonal fruit, such as apples and pears. This salad combines them and is ripe with color, crunch, and flavor for the late summer dining table.
Ingredients
The salad
- 2 red apples, cored and cut into wedges
- 2 just-ripe green pears, cored and cut into wedges
- 5 small or medium beets, peeled and cut into wedges
- Olive oil
- Salt
- 1 small head radicchio, torn
- 2 small heads endive, leaves separated
- Handful of romaine leaves, torn
- 1/2 cup goat cheese, crumbled
- 1/2 cup roasted pecans
The dressing
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1/3 cup thinly sliced shallots
- Salt, to taste
- 1 tsp finely grated ginger
- 2 Tbsps white balsamic vinegar
- 1 Tbsp maple syrup
- Zest and juice of 1/2 lime
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 350°F.
- Line two baking trays, and place the apple and pear wedges on one tray and the beet wedges on the other. Spread into a single layer. Drizzle with oil and season with salt. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, or until slightly browned and tender. The beet will take a little longer. Set aside to cool.
- Meanwhile, for the dressing, heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt, cook gently until softened, about 2 to 4 minutes. Add the ginger and cook, stirring for an additional 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
- Place the remaining dressing ingredients in a bowl. Whisk until well combined. Add the oil mixture and whisk until emulsified. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste.
- Place the radicchio, endive, romaine, fruit, and beets on a large serving platter. Add the dressing and toss gently. Add the goat cheese and nuts just before serving.
RECIPE: Sumptuous Pear and Pomegranate Pavlova
- Yield: Serves 8–12 1x
Description
I first made Pavlova with my good friend Michael. He had his mum’s recipe and it was fabulous. I’ve since become slightly addicted to this dessert. In fact, one summer could have been called the Summer of the Sunday Pavlova. We continued to make it throughout the year, trying a multitude of fruit combinations. Then we struck on pears and pomegranate seeds. Oh my! Thank you, Michael, for introducing me to this scrumptious, ethereal pudding.
Ingredients
- 4 egg whites at room temperature
- Pinch of salt
- 1 cup + 2 tbsps ultra-fine sugar (see note)
- 2 tsps cornstarch
- 1 tsp white wine vinegar
- 1 tsp vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract
- 1 1/2 cups cream
- 1 Tbsp sugar
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 3-4 pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
- 1 tsp sugar
- Seeds of 1 pomegranate
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 300°F.
- Draw a 9-inch circle on parchment paper using a compass or dinner plate. Place the parchment paper on a baking sheet with the circle-side down.
- Using a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until satiny peaks form. Then beat in the ultra-fine sugar, one tablespoon at a time, until the meringue is stiff and shiny. Sprinkle the cornstarch, vinegar, and vanilla over the whipped egg whites. Fold in lightly using a rubber spatula.
- Mound the meringue mixture onto the parchment paper and spread it to the edge of the circle. Flatten the top and smooth the sides.
- Place the meringue on the bottom rack of the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 250°F. Bake for 75 minutes. Turn off the oven and let the meringue cool with the oven door slightly ajar. Remove from the oven when the meringue has cooled completely.
- Whip the cream with the sugar until it forms soft peaks and top the meringue with the whipped cream.
- Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pear slices and sugar, and cook until golden and caramelized. Let cool in the pan.
- When the pear slices are cool, place them on top of the whipped cream. Top with pomegranate seeds.
Notes
To make ultra-fine sugar, process granulated white sugar in a food processor for 1 minute.
RECIPE: Simple Pear Tarte Tatin
- Yield: Serves 6–8 1x
Description
This classic French dessert traditionally features caramelized apples in a pastry shell that’s baked and inverted to serve. This uncomplicated pear version is far greater than the sum of its parts. It need not be perfect. Don’t stress too much about the shape or arrangement of the pears as that won’t impact the taste. With a giant dollop of your favorite topping, your guests won’t be the wiser.
Ingredients
- 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed or 1 batch No-Fuss Pie Pastry
- 10 pears
- 4 Tbsps butter
- 1/2 cup sugar
- Crème fraîche, whipped cream, vanilla ice cream, or non-dairy topping for serving
Instructions
- Roll the pastry out on a floured work surface, and set on a sheet pan in the fridge until ready to use.
- Peel, quarter, and core the pears and set aside in a large bowl. Don’t worry if they start to brown.
- In a large skillet or tarte tatin pan, melt the butter and sprinkle the sugar on top. Cook over medium-low heat without stirring just until the butter separates and the sugar begins to melt. If the pan is too hot and the caramel is browning too fast, simply remove it from the heat and continue to work off the heat. Stir gently as the mixture takes on a golden brown color and becomes caramel.
- Preheat the oven to 375°F.
- Arrange the pear pieces in the pan in a circular pattern, adding more to the center of the circle. Cook over medium to medium-low heat, flipping halfway so all sides are coated in an amber golden caramel color. As the pieces cook, you might be able to fit in more as they will shrink. This should take about 20 minutes.
- When all the fruit is coated in caramel, drape the pastry over the skillet, tucking the edges into the pan. Cook in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown.
- Leave tarte to rest for 15 minutes before carefully inverting it onto a serving dish. Serve warm with a dollop of creamy topping.
